Aquarium Moonlight / Mesečina

English:
Moonlight simulation in aquariums can look pretty astonishing and it is mainly added as a visual effect. According to some research, it can also trigger corals and some fish to spawn, but, to be fair, according to my very experienced friend who is by profession biologist and very devoted freshwater, saltwater and reef aquarist, this fake moonlight effect with couple of LEDs does not have any noticable effect. But never the less, it still looks pretty cool. Well, that counts, too!

Simple moonlight effect can be added to an aquarium using few low-to-moderate brightness blue LEDs (Light Emitting Diode), resistor and a small AC-DC adaptor attached to separate timer. But, even simpler solution is to use factory made Flex LED module with integrated LEDs on a printed circuit board and resistors on a flexible self-adhesive strip. Flex LED strips can be easily shortened into smaller segments to suite your aquarium (the shortest segment is 4.5 cm with 3 LEDs in the model I have used below). In any number of segments we always use the same voltage output (12 Volts DC), which makes it ideal for easy Do-It-Yourself (DIY) aquarium project.

For small and medium home aquariums under no circumstances do not use popular high-power LEDs (few thousands of mili-candela intensity and several Watts in electrical power), since this type of lamps are used to replace regular aquarium lightning, not for moonlight or dawn simulation!

Since there are various types of Flex LED models on the market, your creativity will have to contribute to their variable implementation. I used a simple plastic rod from a drying rack to attach flexible strip to it. Also, you can use plastic circles or any other wave-shaped object. It is also possible to attach strips directly to the aqurium glass, whether from the inner or the outer side. It is really up to you and your taste (or imagination).

Another neat trick you can use thanks to variable DC voltage output from an adaptor is to lower the voltage via switch so you can dynamically adjust your moonlight intensity. No need for cutting segments! More exotic solutions can implement a microcontroller for simulation of moon phases, but as I stated above, all that effort could be a bit pointless.

In my case I used 21 LEDs strip (31.5 cm) which I got from my local electronics shop. They are moderately heated with nominal current supply of 150 mA @ 12 Volts. As you can see from a pictures below, they are very bright with each LED emiting around 200 mC (mili-candela) of light.

Beside Flex LED strip, you will need a cheap AC-DC adaptor for 12 Volts and a timer to program your dawn and moonlight effect. Altought this low-intensity LED light normally does not affect plants and fish population in a negative way, Flex LED with numerous LEDs could be conciderably brighter then few ordinary LEDs, so you should provide a period of complete darkness for a few hours. Below you can see a simple diagram how I did it.

Srpski:
Simulacija mesečine u akvarijumu može izgledati zapanjujuće i uglavnom se postavlja kao vizuelni efekat. Prema nekim istraživanjima, mesečina može doprineti razmnožavanju nekih vrsta riba i korala, ali da budem potpuno iskren, prema mom prijatelju biologu koji je pasionirani slatkovodni, morski i koralni akvarista, ova lažna mesečina sa nekoliko dioda nema gotovo nikakvog uticaja. Ipak, važi da izgleda efektno. I to se računa, zar ne?

Jednostavan efekat mesečine može se postići upotrebom svega nekoliko slabih ili umereno svetlih plavih svetlećih dioda (LED - Light Emitting Diode), redno vezanog otpornika i AC-DC adaptera koji se priključuje na poseban tajmer. Ipak, još jednostavnije rešenje je upotreba Flex LED modula u obliku fleksibilne (savitljive) trake na kojoj je integrisana štampa sa otpornicima i diodama. Flex LED traka se može seći po potrebi na manje segmente (najkraći segment je 4.5 cm sa 3 diode kod modela koji sam ja upotrebio). Bez obzira na broj segmenta, Flex LED se uvek napaja preko napona od 12 volti, što dodatno pojednostavljuje samogradnju.

Za manje i srednje kućne akvarijume nikako ne smemo koristiti popularne "high-power" diode (nekoliko desetina hiljada mili-kandela intenziteta svetla i nekoliko vati električne snage), jer se ove diode koriste kao zamena za regularno osvetljenje u akvarijumu, a ne simulaciju zore i mesečine!

Obzirom da na tržištu postoje različiti Flex LED modeli, vaša kreativnost treba da vam pomogne u njihovoj implementaciji. Ja sam, konkretno, upotrebio plastičnu dršku ofingera na koji sam zalepio fleksibilnu LED traku. Takođe, možete upotrebiti plastične krugove (tacne) ili bilo koju talasastu formu da biste pričvrstili diode i sprečili njihovo kidanje.

Da biste prilagodili intenzitet mesečine, ne morate nužno skraćivati Flex LED traku. Dovoljno je da na AC-DC adapteru smanjite izlazni napon i time ćete već postići slabiji intenzitet uz ravnomernu disperziju svetlosti duž čitavog akvarijuma. Egzotična rešenja mogu sadržati i mikrokontroler sa simulacijom različitih faza meseca, ali kao što sam na početku rekao, sav taj trud može biti nepotreban.

Konkretno, Flex LED za moj akvarijum sam nabavio ovde (može se naručiti pouzećem proizvoljna dužina trake tj. broj segmenata). Pri naponu od 12 volti 21 dioda zahteva 150 mA struje (ili 20 mA po segmentu), a to može zadovoljiti i najmanji AC-DC adapter koji se može uzeti na pijaci. Sa slike ispod se može videti da su vrlo sjajne sa svojih 200 mC (mili-kandela) intenziteta svetlosti po diodi.

Pored Flex LED trake, trebaće vam i tajmer kako biste isprogramirali simulaciju rane zore i mesečine. Iako plavo LED svetlo slabog intenziteta normalno ne ometa ribe i biljke u svom ciklusu, poduža Flex LED traka može sadržati poprilično dioda, pa je potrebno isključiti ovo osvetljenje i obezbediti period potpunog mraka. Ispod je dat raspored osvetljenja u mom slučaju.

New Setup / Nova Postavka

English:
After several days of preparation, I finally got everything to complete a new setup. I used JBL Florapol as a base substrate, AquaClay as mid-layer and common gravel on the top. I decided to use layer structure, altought I could (or should) mix some Florapol with AquaClay at the bottom. Also, I got an advice from a friend to put some tiny amount of quality humus in AquaClay layer to lower the pH level, but since too many complications lately I decided to proceed without this time. If needed, I can easily introduce some humus as part of my filter media.

Srpski:
Nakon nekoliko dana priprema, konačno sam nabavio sve za novu postavku. Koristio sam JBL Florapol kao osnovu, AquaClay kao srednji sloj i obični šljunak na vrhu. Odlučio sam se za slojevitu strukturu, mada sam prema uputstvu trebao da izmešam deo Florapol-a sa AquaClay-om u sredini. Takođe, dobio sam savet od prijatelja da bi valjalo posuti malo kvalitetnog humusa u sloju sa AquaClay-om radi snižavanja pH (zakiseljavanje sredine), ali usled previše komplikacija u poslednje vreme odlučio sam da ovoga puta idem sa prostijom postavkom. Ukoliko kasnije bude potrebe, postaviću vrećicu humusa u sklopu filtera.

STEP 1

* First I moved aquarium into bathroom, put it in the tub and washed inner side with KMnO4 solution (Potassium Permanganate). Afterwards I showered it with hot and cold water

* Prvo sam premestio akvarijum u kadu kupatila i isprao unutrašnje zidove rastvorom KMnO4 (Kalijum Permenganat). Nakon toga sam ga detaljno istuširao toplom i hladnom vodom



STEP 2

* Second step was adding JBL Florapol at the bottom. I decided to put it as a base layer because Florapol clay has tendency to congeal over time and I want to prevent AquaClay clogging.

* Drugi korak je bio postavljanje JBL Florapol-a na dnu. Odlučio sam da Florapol postavim na dnu iz razloga što se glina tokom vremena steže i može zapušiti AquaClay



STEP 3

* Third step was adding plastic net to prevent Florapol from raising up

* Treći sloj je plastična mreža (za komarce) koja sprečava podizanje Florapola i zamućivanje vode


STEP 4

* Fourth step was AquaClay which I previously rinsed in hot and cold water sequentially. I advice you to rinse it to remove fine red dust particles and to make AquaClay absorb water more easily. According to manufacturer I should put around 15 liters of AquaClay, but that was a bit too much for me, so I put only 5 liters (around 2 cm)

* Potom sam postavio AquaClay koju sam prethodno isprao redom u toploj i hladnoj vodi. Savetujem vam da obavezno isperete AquaClay kako bi uklonili finu crvenu prašinu i postigli brže potapanje u vodi. Po preporuci proizvođača za moj akvarijum bi trebalo oko 15 litara podloge, ali to mi je ipak bilo previše na uštrb litraže vode pa sam postavio svega 5 litara (oko 2 cm)



STEP 5

* Another layer of plastic net to prevent AquaClay accidental resurfacing
* Novi sloj mreže koja sprečava isplivavanje AquaClay-a



STEP 6

* 20 Kg of common gravel with 3-5 mm granulation
* 20 Kg šljunka granulacije 3-5 mm



STEP 7

* Finally some rocks, driftwood (previously cured in water) and tap water treated with SERA AquaTan

* Konačno kamenje, panj (prethodno prokuvani) i voda tretirana SERA AquaTan kondicionerom



STEP 8

* After 2 days water temperature was stabilized so I returned Cabomba Caroliniana and Echinodorus plants

* Nakon 2 dana temperatura vode se stabilizovala pa sam vratio Cabomba Caroliniana i Echinodorus-e



STEP 9

* Next few days I'll add some new plants. This is my new setup at night with moonlight effect turned on (I'll describe this DIY project in my next blog entry)

* Narednih dana dodaću još neke biljke. Ovo je igled trenutne postavke noću sa efektom mesečine (o kojoj ću pisati u narednom izdanju)

AquaClay

English:
Part of the puzzle for my new aquarium setting is completed. I've acquired australian AquaClay substrate which is very popular in the world. AquaClay in Europe is mainly imported from Germany, where it's produced under a license.

First thing a good substrate absolutely must provide is a good water flow (e.g. must not be too dense) and good oxigenation. Second thing, it has to be rich in micro and macro elements if you plan to be succesfull in plant keeping, which in turn will provide more natural and healthier environment for your fish. AquaClay seems to acomplish all of this tasks pretty effectively.

If we look at the main chemical composition of AquaClay, at a first glance we can see that there is no some special "component X" in this substrate.

AquaClay Ground chemical composition:
- SiO2 (Silicon dioxide) .............. 56 %
- Al2O3 (Aliminum oxide) ........... 19 %
- Fe2O3 (Iron (III) oxide) ............ 14 %
- CaO (Calcium oxide) ................ 2 %
- Chloride ......................... < 0.05 %
- Soluble Acid Sulphate .......... < 0.20 %
- Total Sulphur ................... < 0.40 %

SiO2 (silicon dioxide) is well known to all aquarists, it is basically sand or fine gravel, and is the main component of glass. Other components such as aluminum, calcium and iron oxides are there as supplements to alter structure and melting point of SiO2. Iron, for example, is an extremely important element for plants, and it's supplied in a form that isn't freely available to algae. What makes AquaClay so special is a production process that achieves a high CEC (CEC = Cation Exchange Capacity), parameter that shows us how a substrate can bind to itself other molecules or simply "nutrients" in translation to average Joe. Common clay, such as JBL Florapol, has a micro and macro elements, but has a relatively low CEC compared to AquaClay. High porosity, which is achieved by optimal grain size and baking at 1200° Celsius enables the smooth circulation of water through the substrate, free exchange of nutrients (and toxins), development of beneficial bacteria in the surface (for filtration and decomposition of ammonia and other harmful substances), prevents the decay of plant roots, etc.

However, AquaClay inherently possesses one trait that is a direct consequence of its physical structure (high porosity), which means that AquaClay substrate can float in water, at least in first couple of weeks in aquarium. This means that if you have some lively fish in aquarium that like to dig your substrate, AquaClay could easily surface. The solution to this problem is very simple: when you put AquaClay substrate (usually as a base substrate), put a fine plastic net over that layer, next you should put some clay and peat or other substrate, then again fine net as a security precaution, and finally few inches of some nice decorative pebbles. Another trick to try in order to AquaClay more quickly absorb water is to put it in a very hot water and immidiatelly afterwards place it in cold water.

This would be the story about AquaClay, my new substrate for aquarium. In the next few days I will prepare the other ingredients and proceed to the next stage...

Srpski:
Deo slagalice za novu-staru postavku je popunjen. Nabavio sam australijsku podlogu AquaClay koja je u svetu, a i kod nas koji znaju, izuzetno popularna. AquaClay se na našim prostorima uglavnom uvozi iz Nemačke, gde se proizvodi po licenci.

Prva stvar koju dobra podloga mora apsolutno ispuniti je dobra cirkulacija vode (drugim rečima, ne sme biti previše nabijena) i dobro snabdevanje kiseonikom. Dalje, mora biti bogata mikro i makro elementima ukoliko želimo biti uspešni u gajenju podvodnog bilja, koje će nam za uzvrat stvoriti prirodniji i zdraviji ambijent za ribice. AquaClay izgleda ispunjava sve ove zahteve prilično efikasno.
Ukoliko pogledamo osnovni sastav AquaClay-a, na prvi pogled videćemo da ova podloga i nije ništa specijalno.

AquaClay Ground hemijski sastav:
- SiO2 (Silicon dioxide) .............. 56 %
- Al2O3 (Aliminum oxide) ........... 19 %
- Fe2O3 (Iron (III) oxide) ............ 14 %
- CaO (Calcium oxide) ................ 2 %
- Chloride ......................... < 0.05 %
- Soluble Acid Sulphate ......... < 0.20 %
- Total Sulphur .................. < 0.40 %

Nema tajne hemijske komponente "X" koja je ključ njenog uspeha na tržištu. SiO2 (Silicijum dioksid) je dobro poznat svim akvaristima, predstavlja u osnovi pesak ili fini šljunak, a i osnovna je komponenta stakla. Ostale komponente poput aluminijum, kalcijum i gvožde oksida su tu kao dopunske komponente koje menjaju strukturu i tačku topljenja SiO2. Gvožđe je, na primer, izuzetno važan element za prehranu bilja, a nalazi se u formi koja nije slobodno dostupna algama. Ono što AquaClay čini tako posebnim jeste proces proizvodnje kojim se postiže visok CEC (CEC = Cation Exchange Capacity), parametar koji nam pokazuje koliko neka podloga može za sebe vezivati ili otpuštati druge molekule tj. "hranljive materije" u prevodu za nas obične smrtnike. Obična glina, kao što je JBL Florapol, poseduje hranljive mikro i makro elemente, ali ima relativno nizak CEC u poređenju sa AquaClay-om. Tu ova podloga upravo stupa na snagu. Visoka poroznost zrna koja se postiže optimalnom veličinom i pečenjem na 1200° C omogućava neometanu cirkulaciju vode kroz podlogu, razmenu hranljivih materija (i otrova) kroz čitav ekosistem u akvarijumu što doprinosi napredovanju bilja, razvoj korisnih bakterija u podlozi (koje obavljaju filtraciju i razgradnju amonijaka i drugih štetnih materija), sprečava truljenje korenja kod bilja itd.
Ipak, AquaClay inherentno poseduje jednu osobinu koja je direktno posledica njegove fizičke građe (visoka poroznost), a to je činjenica da je zrno AquaClay-a pozitivno plovno. To znači da vam se lako može desiti da ukoliko imate neke živahnije ribe u akvarijumu koje vole da rovare po dnu, iskopaju sloj šljunka i deo AquaClay-a ispliva na površinu. Naravno, vremenom AquaClay će se "napiti" vode i ostati prizemljen, ali u početku to mnogima može zadavati glavobolje, posebno kod sadnje bilja sa plitkim korenom ili bez korena. Rešenje ovog problema je vrlo prosto: kada ređamo AquaClay, preko njega stavimo plastičnu mrežu za komarce, preko toga slojeve gline, treseta ili neke druge podloge, a nakon toga opet novu mrežu i preko toga sloj ukrasnog šljunka. Još jedan trik da AquaClay brže upije vodu je da ga pre postavljanja u akvarijum isperemo vrelom vodom, a potom odmah postavimo i naspemo hladnu vodu.

AquaClay Substrate

To bi bila pričica o AquaClay-u. Narednih dana ću pripremiti i ostale komponente i krećem sa novom postavkom...

Aquarium Glass Crack (Epilog)

English:
Exciting days. At the end, this was not a crack in the glass at all, it was just a little deeper scratch - that's all! With a laugh, owner of the shop from which I bought aquarium (check earlier blogs), enterd my home and immediatelly through the closed top lid said this. With few moves of his fingers, scratch was almost gone! I was in shock again... I dismentled everything for the second time for nothing? Oh, the life goes on, I guess. Good thing in this bumpy episode is that I found a good fellow aquarist who will give me a great plant substrate that is not normally availabale in my local stores.

Srpski:
Kakvi dani. Na kraju, ovo uopšte i nije bila pukotina na staklu, u pitanju je samo malo dublja ogrebotina - to je sve! Sa osmehom na licu, vlasnik od koga sam kupio akvarijum (pogledati ranije blogove) došao je kod mene i kroz zatvoreni poklopac akvarijuma odmah konstatovao kvar. Sa nekoliko pokreta njegove ruke, ogrebotina je skoro nestala! Bio sam ponovo u šoku... Rasformirao sam i ovaj setap (po drugi put za nepunih mesec dana) ni zbog čega? Život ide dalje. Dobra stvar u čitavoj zavrzlami je da sam konačno pronašao dobar substrat za bilje od prijatelja akvariste koja inače nije dostupna u našim radnjama.

Aquarium Glass Crack / Pukotina na staklu

English:
Sad day for my aquarium. Today I conducted regular maintenance with 10-15% water change and some inner glass cleaning with sponge, when I noticed 3 cm long vertical glass fracture on the right corner glass at the top. I was shocked! Aquarium was carrefully brought to my home just over a month ago, it was in fine shape apparently, it was finally cycling and Cabomba Caroliniana was really enjoing its new home. I was planning to introduce first fish inhabitant sometime next week. Unfortunately, that must be postponed untill I resolve this problem with the shop owner where I purchased aquarium...

Srpski:
Tužan dan za moj akvarijum. Danas sam sproveo regularno održavanje u vidu zamene 10-15% vode i čišćenje zaprljanih unutrašnjih delova stakla, kada sam primetio pukotinu od 3 cm na desnoj zasečenoj ivici pri vrhu. Bio sam u šoku! Akvarijum je pažljivo prenet od radnje do kuće pre nešto više od mesec dana, bio je u dobrom stanju na prvi pogled, do danas je uredno cikliran i Cabomba Caroliniana je zaista uživala u svom novom domu. Planirao sam da krajem sledeće nedelje stavim prvu ribicu. Nažalost, sve sada moram da odložim dok ne razrešim nastalu situaciju sa vlasnikom radnje u kojoj sam ga uzeo...

JBL Florapol Substrate

English:
I do not know how I came to this idea, especially after the experience with the soil as a base substrate, but it tickled my conscience because of the lack of nutritious substrate for plants. Looking at photos I've made with my mobile phone during the last visit to the local aqua shop, I spotted a product that did not belong to liquid and solid fertilizer group I was focused then: JBL Florapol.

Price for this substrate was extremely low, which was just an additional plus. I researched the internet about some of the experiences (the Aquatic Plant Central and Aquatic Quotient, and on some local forums) and realized that this product is probably good. Of course, there are pro aquarists who are not so impresed with it (for e.g. SeaChem Fluorite is more advanced substrate), but to cut a long story short, I decided to try it.


AquaBasis vs Florapol
According to the official statement of the manufacturer I got from an email communication with JBL representative, AquaBasis Plus is used in the new tank if we didn't plan any other substrate at the bottom (eg, gravel with fine granulation or similar), while Florapol is used when we wish to mix it with a base substrate of our choice. Florapol is a sort of clay rich in minerals and other nutrients necessary for plant growth, and has the ability of re-absorbing and releasing nutrients as needed. AquaBasis Plus is nothing but Florapol mixed with another substrate. However, in both cases we should put thicker 4-6 cm layer of gravel with larger granulation (2-3 mm) to prevent water clouding. Both substrates are rich in chelated Iron (Fe), which means that it is in a chemically bonded form not available to algae, but readily availabale to plant roots via enzyme reactions.

Procedure:
Since I already have completed aquarium setup that was cycling for some time, I naturally did not have intention to go from the start again. I simply took out this procedure to remove water, reallocate gravel at the buttom and put Florapol as a base substrate:

1) I took a package of Florapol (700 grams) which is sufficient for aquariums of 100-200 liters in volume

2) I pumped out old water from the aquarium, took out all the plants and ornaments (driftwood and rocks)

3) Then I shifted all the gravel to the left pile and poured half the content of Florapol bag down to the bottom (electrical pump with hose of course failed to remove a small amount of water) which immediatelly created big milky/brownish cloudiness similar to one I saw with the soil, but much finer at touch. I've become slightly desperate, because I thought that this muddy water would not settle down for the next few weeks. As it turned out, my concern was not in order.

4) After finishing the left side of the aquarium base, I repeated the whole procedure for the right half

5) While ornaments (driftwood, rocks) and plants were still outside, I ran a couple of water changes filling the aquarium up to 1/3 volume, wiggle the upper layers of gravel to "rinse" it and create as more cloudiness as I could so I could pump the dirt at upper gravel layer out. After the third time of water change I planted herbs and returned dritwood, rocks, filter and heater and again filled whole aquarium with fresh water. I added SERA AquaTan conditioner, 10 ml Tetra PlantaMin liquid fertilizer, inserted 7 JBL clay fertilizer balls (as a boost to Florapol) and plugged entire system with maximum aeration. The water was crystal clear like just few hours earlier before I started the whole procedure. By the way, I also planted several new stalks of Cabomba Caroliniana.

Behold, the procedure is completed in 3 hours. I did not mixed Florapol with part of the top gravel as recommended in the manual, instead I've spread it directly on the bottom. Plants will have to find the way. They always do.

Of course, Florapol alone is not enough, especially for plants that feed themselfs via water colum (e.g. absorbing nutrients directly through their tiny leaves), so liquid fertilazires are still required to maintain healthy growth.

Srpski:
Ni sam ne znam kako sam došao na ovu ideju, posebno nakon iskustva sa zemljom kao podlogom, ali uhvatila me je griža savesti zbog odsustva hranljive podloge za bilje. Listajući fotke koje sam načinio mobilnim telefonom prilikom poslednje posete lokalnoj prodavnici primetio sam jedan proizvod koji nije pripadao klasičnim tečnim i čvrstim fertilizerima: JBL Florapol.

Cena za ovu podlogu je bila izuzetno niska, što je bio samo dodatni plus. Istražio sam internet o nekim iskustvima (na Aquatic Plant Central i Aquatic Quotient, kao i na nekim domaćim forumima) i shvatio da proizvod nije loš. Naravno, ima i profesionalnih akvarista koji nisu preterano oduševljeni ovom podlogom u odnosu na neke konkurente (npr. SeaChem Fluorite), ali da skratim priču, odlučio sam da ga probam.

AquaBasis vs Florapol
Prema zvaničnom stavu proizvođača, AquaBasis Plus se koristi kada u akvarijumu nemamo ili ne planiramo nikakvu drugu podlogu na dnu (npr. šljunak fine granulacije ili nešto drugo), dok se Florapol koristi kada u akvarijumu koristimo podlogu prema sopstvenom izboru (laterit, fruge komercijalne podloge i slično). Florapol je praktično vrsta gline (clay) bogata mineralima i drugim hranljivim materijama neophodnim za rast bilja, a ima i sposobnost njihove re-absorpcije i otpuštanja prema potrebi. AquaBasis Plus nije ništa drugo nego Florapol izmešan sa drugim substratom. Bez obzira na izbor, u oba slučaja treba staviti i deblji sloj šljunka krupnije granulacije (2-3 mm) kako bi se sprečilo zamućivanje vode usled aktivnosti na površini. Obe podloge su veoma bogate hemijski vezanim gvožđem (Fe), što u prevodu znači da nije dostupno algama, ali je spremno za absorpciju bilja putem enzimskih reakcija u predelu korena.

Procedura:

Kako sam već imao kompletiranu postavku koja je ciklirala nekoliko dana, prirodno nisam imao volje da sve ponovo rasturam i krećem ispočetka. Zbog toga sam primenio ovu proceduru kojom sam ispumpao vodu i premeštao deo šljunka sa jedne na drugu stranu i postavljao Florapol kao osnovu:

1) Uzeo sam pakovanje Florapola od 700 grama što je dovoljno za akvarijume od 100 do 200 litara.

2) U rekordnom roku sam ispumpao vodu iz akvarijuma, izvadio bilje i ornamente (panj i kamenje)

3) Prebacio sam sav šljunak na levu polovinu akvarijuma na gomilu, postavio 1/2 sadržaja vrećice koji je formirao mulj (pumpa naravno nije uspela da izbaci manju zaostalu količinu vode) sličan onom koji je načinila zemlja, ali dosta finiji na dodir. Već sam postao blago očajan, jer sam mislio da će se voda mutiti narednih nekoliko nedelja zbog toga, ali kako se kasnije ispostavilo, brigi nije bilo mesta.

4) Potom sam zatrpao levu polovinu šljunkom, ponovio postupak za desnu polovinu akvarijuma

5) Dok su ornamenti (panj i kamenje) i bilje još uvek stajali napolju, izmenio sam nekoliko voda punjenjem akvarijuma do 1/3 zapremine, mrdanjem gornjih slojeva šljunka dlanom kako bih ga isprao i stvorio što veći mulj koji bi potom ispumpao. Nakon trećeg puta zasadio sam bilje, vratio panj, filter i grejač i dopunio akvarijum svežom vodom. Dodao sam SERA AquaTan, 10 ml Tetra tečnog fertilizera i uključio čitav sistem uz maksimalnu aeraciju. Voda je bila kristalno čista kao i pre svega 3 sata pre nego što sam dodao glinu. Usput, zasadio sam i nekoliko novih stabljika Cabomba Caroliniana-e.

Eto, procedura je obavljena. Nisam mešao Florapol sa delom šljunka, kao što se savetuje u uputstvu, već sam ga direktno postavio na samo dno. Bilje će već pronaći put. Uvek ga pronađe.

Naravno, Florapol nije dovoljan za biljke koje se prevashodno hrane putem vodene kolone (tj. bilje koje upija hranljive materije prvenstveno preko svojih tankih listova), tako da se tečna đubriva i dalje moraju povremeno dodavati za uspešan rast.